kimono

The Kimono: A Guide to Japan's Celebrated Traditional Dress

The Kimono: A Guide to Japan's Celebrated Traditional Dress


The kimono is perhaps the most famous traditional attire from Japan, known for its beauty and intricate details. For centuries, the kimono has been a symbol of Japanese culture, appealing not only for its aesthetic but for the rich stories and significance behind each element. Every part of the kimono, from the choice of fabric to the color and pattern, is chosen with care, reflecting aspects of nature, the changing seasons, and the wearer's social status. These garments are true works of art, made with exceptional skill and precision by craftsmen dedicated to preserving this cultural treasure.

While many people recognize the kimono, they might not know that the term "kimono" simply means 'something worn' and that it includes many different styles suited to various occasions. From the light and breezy yukata seen at summer festivals to the elaborate and costly furisode donned at formal events, the kimono remains an integral part of life in Japan, connecting the past with the present.

Exploring the Kimono: Japan's Iconic Traditional Dress

The kimono, from the Japanese words "Kiru" (to wear) and "mono" (thing), literally means "thing to wear." This traditional Japanese garment is a long, T-shaped robe with wide, flowing sleeves and wraps across the body, with the left side traditionally worn over the right. It's secured with a belt and often paired with traditional footwear like zori sandals or the more casual geta, along with split-toe tabi socks.

Kimonos are crafted from luxurious fabrics such as silk, though cotton, linen, and other plant fibers are also used. The construction involves sewing rectangular pieces of fabric together using intricate techniques that add texture and vibrant patterns. These fabrics are then dyed using natural powders and decorated with elaborate embroidery and golden threads to create stunning visual effects.

slip-into-a-kimono

Slip into a Kimono

 

The detailed and labor-intensive process of making a kimono explains its high cost and value.

A Quick Look at the Kimono's History

Originally, the kimono was everyday wear for both men and women up until the Meiji era in the late 19th century. The term 'kimono' was simply a generic word for clothing. As Western styles began to influence Japanese fashion, the kimono shifted from everyday attire to being reserved for special occasions, such as weddings and New Year celebrations.

Post-World War II, wearing a kimono became less common, and many people now require professional help or tutorials to wear one correctly due to the complexity of putting it on. However, traditional roles like geisha, maiko, kabuki actors, and tea masters still wear kimonos daily. Moreover, the kimono continues to inspire modern fashion enthusiasts worldwide, adding a timeless elegance to contemporary styles.

women-and-girls-in-maiko-kimono-with-samurai-in-gion

Women and girls in Maiko Kimono with samurai in Gion

 

Exploring Different Types of Kimonos in Japan

The term "kimono" literally translates to "a thing to wear," and this traditional attire continues to hold a special place in Japanese culture, although it's no longer everyday attire. There are numerous types of kimonos, each designed for specific occasions and reflecting various cultural aspects.

At its core, the kimono is a robe, available in an array of styles, patterns, and colors that often correspond with the changing seasons. Beyond this, kimonos vary significantly, with each type having a distinct role in Japanese traditions and social functions. Knowing about these different kimono styles can greatly enhance your understanding and appreciation of Japanese culture.

Tomesode: The Formal Kimono for Married Women

The tomesode is one of the most formal kimonos traditionally worn by married women, commonly seen at Japanese weddings or other special occasions. Its name comes from two kanji characters: "tome," meaning "to tie," and "sode," meaning "sleeve." Historically, unmarried women tied up their long sleeves to prevent them from getting in the way while doing household chores. Once they took on family responsibilities, the sleeves were shortened, giving birth to the tomesode style.

The length of the tomesode’s sleeves also reflects the age of the wearer. For women under 30, the standard sleeve length is 60 cm, but as they age, the length of the sleeves gradually shortens, reaching around 49 cm by the age of 50.

married-women-in-black-tomesode-kimono

Married Women in Black Tomesode Kimono

 

There are two main types of tomesode:

  • Kurotomesode: A black tomesode worn by married women, particularly during formal events.

  • Irotomesode: A colored version often worn by unmarried women.

While the only difference between these two types is the fabric color, this distinction significantly impacts the formality of the outfit.

Furisode: For Unmarried Girls and Young Women

The furisode is known for its long, flowing sleeves and is typically worn by unmarried women. These sleeves can range from 100 to 107 cm in length, with bold and eye-catching designs often featured on the fabric.

There are three variations of the furisode, based on sleeve length:

  • Kofurisode: This version has the shortest sleeves and is sometimes paired with hakama (formal pants) for a more traditional look reminiscent of the Meiji period. This style is less common but still holds cultural significance, especially for school events.

  • Chufurisode: With medium-length sleeves, this furisode is popular among younger women. It’s lighter and more comfortable, as it lacks the padding found in the ofurisode.

  • Ofurisode: The most formal version, often worn by brides or during important ceremonies, features sleeves that nearly touch the ground. This type includes padding for durability and is the most elaborate of the furisode styles.

    unmarried-girls-in-furisode-kimono

    Unmarried Girls in Furisode Kimono

     

Homongi: The Versatile Visiting Kimono

Originally designed for visiting others, the homongi remains one of the most adaptable types of kimono, suitable for a variety of occasions. It strikes the perfect balance between formality and everyday wear, making it a great option for events where you want to look elegant without being overdressed.

The homongi is recognized by its dyed patterns that flow across the lower part of the kimono, as well as on the sleeves, back, and shoulders. Unlike kimonos where patterns are confined to specific sections, homongi patterns often continue across the seams, creating a seamless, flowing design. This intricate detailing makes the garment more refined but also adds to its cost due to the extra craftsmanship involved.

Homongi is available in many colors and is a popular choice for events like weddings, theater visits, or formal dinners. However, it's not recommended for informal daytime occasions like luncheons, especially if the kimono has crests, which would make it too formal for such settings.

japanese-homongi-kimono

Japanese Homongi Kimono

 

Iromuji: The Simplicity of One Color

The iromuji kimono is a solid-colored garment with no patterns, embodying the beauty of simplicity. Its understated design allows it to be worn at a range of formal and family events, including graduation ceremonies and tea ceremonies, without drawing too much attention. The lack of bold patterns makes it a respectful choice for more solemn occasions, but it's equally fitting for celebratory moments.

Iromuji is often chosen for tea ceremonies, where minimalism is key, and accessories are avoided to prevent damaging the delicate tea bowls. This kimono can be adapted for either formal or casual events depending on the style of the obi (belt) worn with it. It’s important to note that white and black iromuji are not commonly worn, as they carry specific ceremonial meanings.

boys-in-kimono-fighting

Boys in Kimono Fighting

 

Shiromuku: The Traditional Japanese Wedding Kimono

The Shiromuku is a traditional Japanese wedding kimono, known for its all-white design. White symbolizes purity, but it also signifies the bride’s readiness to embrace her new life and family, symbolically "dyeing" herself with her husband's colors. The tradition of wearing Shiromuku dates back to the Heian period when it was reserved for samurai families.

When wearing the Shiromuku, the bride also dons a white hood called a "wataboshi," similar to a Western bridal veil, covering her entirely in white. This all-white look, including accessories, is meant to invoke the sun goddess Amaterasu from Japanese mythology, symbolizing light and blessing. Additionally, the bride may wear a "tsunokakushi" headpiece, which translates to "horn-hiding," symbolizing the bride's commitment to kindness and harmony in her new family life.

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A Bride Wearing a Typical Shiromuku Kimono

 

Mofuku: The Mourning Kimono

The Mofuku is a black kimono worn during funerals and memorial services as a sign of mourning. This formal kimono features five family crests and is completely black, often paired with a black obi and matching accessories. Traditionally, it is worn by immediate family members of the deceased, while other attendees may wear less formal attire with subtle black elements, such as a black obi-jime or obi-age. The simplicity of the mofuku reflects the somber tone of the occasion.

Yukata: The Casual Summer Kimono

The Yukata is a lightweight, casual kimono most often worn during Japan’s hot summer months. Originally used as bathing attire in onsen towns, the Yukata has become a popular choice for summer festivals and firework displays. Typically made from cotton, Yukata are worn by both men and women, with men's versions featuring shorter sleeves. The garment is often paired with geta sandals, worn barefoot, making it a comfortable yet traditional option for warm-weather events.

While classic Yukata colors are blue and white, dyed using the katazome technique, modern designs now come in a wide range of colors and patterns. The Yukata is fastened with a simple hanhaba obi, a thinner and easier-to-tie version of the traditional obi, making it more comfortable and less formal. For those who want to add a touch of elegance, accessories like obi-jime and obi-age can be added, though they are not required for casual wear.

Japanese-woman-wearing-traditional-yukata-at-sensojo-temple

Japanese Woman Wearing Traditional Yukata at Senso-ji Temple

 

Komon: The Everyday Kimono with Timeless Patterns

The komon is a casual style of kimono known for its small, repeating patterns that cover the entire fabric. This type of kimono is perfect for everyday wear and was once the go-to outfit for daily life in Japan before Western clothing became more common. The word "komon" means "small pattern," and these designs often include vertical stripes or other delicate motifs.

Despite their beauty, komon kimonos are not suited for formal occasions. Instead, they are great for casual outings, like a stroll around town or a simple celebration. Paired with a stylish obi, a komon can also be worn for dining out or other relaxed events. Imagine a time when the streets of Japan were filled with people wearing these patterned garments as part of their daily routine.

young-women-in-komon-kimono-at-sensoji-temple

Pretty Girls Wearing Komon Kimono at Senso-ji Temple

 

Symbolism in Kimono Patterns

Kimonos are often made from luxurious materials like silk, but they can also be crafted from cotton or synthetic fabrics. The patterns and designs on kimonos carry deep meanings, representing nature, seasons, and social status. These patterns are more than just decoration; they tell stories and hold symbolic significance.

For instance, cranes, a symbol of longevity and marital harmony, are often seen on wedding kimonos. The "shochikubai" pattern, which features pine, bamboo, and plum, symbolizes perseverance and vitality, making it fitting for weddings and children’s celebrations like Shichigosan.

Cherry blossoms, a classic motif, represent new beginnings, as they bloom in the spring, marking fresh starts. Camellias and peonies, known for their elegance, are symbols of nobility and everlasting beauty. Butterflies are associated with the healthy growth of women, reflecting the transformation that occurs as they mature.

cherry-blossoms-viewing-in-kimono

Cherry Blossoms Viewing in Kimono

 

These patterns add layers of meaning to the kimono, making it not just a garment, but a piece of cultural heritage that tells a story through its design.

Differences Between Men's and Women's Kimonos

Men’s and women’s kimonos differ in various ways, from design to fit. Men’s kimonos tend to be simpler, often featuring solid colors or subtle, repetitive patterns. The sleeves are shorter and narrower, giving a more practical and streamlined look. The obi, or belt, for men is thinner and is tied in a simple knot at the back.

Women’s kimonos, on the other hand, are more elaborate, with vibrant patterns that might include bold flowers or detailed scenes. The sleeves are wider and longer, allowing for graceful movement and highlighting the beauty of the garment. The obi for women is much wider and is often tied in an intricate bow, adding to the elegance of the outfit.

Another difference lies in the collar design. Men’s kimonos feature a narrow, straight collar, while women’s kimonos have a wider, more rounded collar that frames the face and neck. These elements reflect traditional gender roles, but today, people are more flexible with kimono fashion, allowing for individual expression beyond these distinctions.

differences-between-men's-and-women's-kimonos

Differences Between Men's and Women's Kimonos

 

The sleeves of men’s kimonos are also shorter, and they are sewn to the body of the kimono, whereas women’s sleeves are open, adding another layer of movement and elegance. In formal settings, men wear a kaku obi, about two inches wide, which is often hidden under the hakama, a type of wide-legged trousers. For informal occasions, men wear a heko obi, which is softer and more like a scarf.

Footwear differs slightly as well. Both men and women wear geta sandals, but men’s sandals are usually more square in shape compared to the narrower design for women.

How Much Does a Kimono Cost?

The price of a kimono can vary widely based on the fabric and craftsmanship. Basic kimonos can start around 4,000 yen (about 40 USD), but some can reach prices of several million yen for high-quality, hand-crafted pieces.

Here’s a rough guide to the cost based on material:

  • Wool kimonos: 20,000-30,000 yen (150-200 USD)

  • Silk kimonos: 30,000-80,000 yen (300-800 USD)

  • Cotton kimonos: 2,000-4,000 yen (30-50 USD)

Recently, more affordable and practical materials like polyester, which can be machine-washed, have become popular, offering a modern twist to this traditional garment.

Why Are Kimonos So Expensive?

Many of us are used to affordable, machine-made clothes, but a traditional silk kimono is a completely different story. These garments are hand-sewn, and natural silk, which is often used, comes at a high price. On top of that, the fabric is frequently dyed by hand, which adds significantly to the overall cost.

Kimono making is a highly skilled craft. Tailors undergo extensive training, and to be considered true professionals, they must demonstrate the ability to create an entire kimono from start to finish in just 8 hours. Crafting a kimono requires not only technical skill but also an eye for detail and design.

The price of a kimono is also affected by all the additional elements, such as the obi belt, obiage (the decorative sash), and zori sandals, which together complete the traditional look. All of these factors contribute to the high cost of this iconic garment.