Over the years, Japanese fashion has been influenced by Western styles, but the kimono remains a cherished garment worn at important occasions such as ceremonies, graduations, and weddings. Wearing a kimono properly is an art that reflects deep cultural traditions, and there are specific rules to follow to honor this practice.
In Japan, the traditional art of wearing a kimono is known as "kitsuke." Kitsuke is a highly detailed process, where every element, from selecting the appropriate accessories like fans, Kanzashi (hair ornaments), and Japanese umbrellas, to choosing the right kimono, is done thoughtfully.
For women, kitsuke involves selecting a kimono based on factors such as age, marital status, and the type of event. This can make learning to wear a kimono seem daunting due to its complexity.
A Woman Wearing Kimono at Fuji Mountain
In this guide, we'll cover the fundamental rules to help you wear your kimono correctly and respect the rich traditions that come with this elegant Japanese garment.
Wearing a kimono is an art form steeped in tradition, known as "Kitsuke." It involves multiple layers and accessories, and mastering it can take time. This guide will walk you through the process of putting on a kimono, which is taught in some Japanese families and even specialized schools.
Begin by putting on a pair of white traditional socks, known as tabi.
Wear a susoyoke (underskirt) and a hadajuban (a thin cotton shirt) under the kimono to protect it from perspiration.
Putting on a Pair of White Traditional Socks
Next, put on the nagajuban, a lightweight under-kimono that helps keep the outer kimono clean.
Secure the nagajuban with a koshi-himo, a type of cotton belt, just under the chest.
Insert an erishin, a small rigid band, into the collar of the nagajuban to keep it crisp and shaped.
Drape the kimono over yourself, ensuring it lines up neatly with the nagajuban underneath.
Cross the left side over the right (always this way) and tie it at the waist with another koshi-himo.
Adjust the kimono by folding any excess fabric over the belt to ensure a smooth fit.
Putting on the Kimono
Position and tie a date-jime belt above the waist to further secure the kimono.
Wrap the obi around your waist, covering all the underlying belts, and tie it at the back in a decorative knot.
Realign the collar if needed and secure the final koshi-himo beneath the bust to keep everything neatly in place.
Double-check that everything is aligned properly and that the obi is showing off its decorative elements.
Final Adjustments
While wearing a kimono can be challenging, there are basic guidelines that can help you wear it correctly. Although these rules have evolved into more flexible guidelines allowing for personal expression, understanding the basics of Kitsuke is crucial for anyone looking to respect this traditional attire. Here are a few tips to ensure you wear your kimono correctly and stylishly:
Always cross the left side over the right. Ensure the obi covers all underlying belts and is tied securely. Use accessories to complement and not overwhelm the kimono. With practice, wearing a kimono can become a fulfilling way to connect with Japanese culture, blending tradition with your personal style.
A fundamental rule for wearing both the nagajuban (under-kimono) and the kimono itself is to always wrap the left side over the right side. Wrapping the right side over the left is traditionally reserved for dressing the deceased, so it's crucial to remember this rule to avoid a major faux pas. A catchy way to remember this is by thinking of the phrase "leftover rice."
Wrap the Left Side Over the Right Side
The placement of the kimono's collar is also important. It should be snug enough to reveal the nape of your neck, ideally leaving a gap about the width of a fist-and-a-half. This display of the neck is particularly emphasized for younger wearers, who typically wear the front collar high and tight. In contrast, older women may wear their collars lower and more relaxed, showing less of the neck.
Being in harmony with the seasons is a key aspect of kimono fashion. Certain colors and patterns are specific to different times of the year. For instance, designs featuring a full sakura (cherry blossom) tree are appropriate only during the cherry blossom season. Meanwhile, motifs of individual sakura flowers are versatile enough for year-round wear. To match your kimono with the seasons, consider autumnal motifs like falling leaves and colors such as brown, red, and dark green. Winter favors darker tones like black and red, while spring calls for lighter pinks and floral patterns. Summer is perfect for vibrant hues like blues and yellows.
Girls in Kimono Enjoying Colorful Leaves
When wearing a kimono, it's important to present a tube-like silhouette. This may require the use of padding to adjust your shape, as kimonos are designed to look very symmetrical. Ensuring that the seams are properly aligned and that the bottom hem is horizontal to the ground can be tricky and usually takes practice to perfect.
Understanding whether a kimono is formal or casual can help in choosing the right one for the occasion:
If the kimono features gold detailing, embroidery, silk, or shiny fabric, and if the pattern is localized rather than uniform, it’s typically considered formal.
On the other hand, if the kimono is made of cotton, has a repetitive pattern, and lacks any shiny or embroidered embellishments, it’s likely intended for casual wear.
A crucial aspect of wearing a kimono is the placement of the obi, the wide belt used to cinch the garment. The obi should always be tied at the back. Historically, an obi tied in front was associated with women who worked in the red-light districts, so to avoid this connotation and respect traditional norms, always ensure your obi is tied behind you.
Proper Placement of the Obi
In Japan, the change of seasons is deeply integrated into daily life and influences traditional clothing choices like the kimono. Instead of merely matching the current season, the Japanese often dress to herald the upcoming season with their kimonos, selecting appropriate fabrics, colors, and patterns that hint at what’s to come.
The spring tsukesage is a staple for any Japanese woman’s wardrobe, particularly during the season's many celebrations such as graduation ceremonies, the start of the school year, and Shinto festivals. For these occasions, a tsukesage in soft pastel colors is ideal, blending elegance with the vibrant renewal of spring.
A Woman Wearing Kimono in Spring
During summer, the homongi, known as a "visiting garment," is often chosen for special events like tea ceremonies, theatre outings, or weddings. Despite being summer, the fabric may feature patterns like autumn grasses, subtly nodding to the approaching fall—a common practice in Japanese fashion to anticipate the next season. These kimonos are typically made from lightweight, breathable silk that helps create a cooling effect.
For more casual and practical wear, yukatas made of cotton or linen are popular. These are lighter and easier to wear, often brightly colored and less formal, making them ideal for the hot and festive summer months.
Japanese Woman in Kimono Prepares for the Tea Ceremony
As the air cools in autumn, double-layered kimonos, known as avase, become the attire of choice. Opting for fabrics in rich, vibrant colors can mirror the striking colors of the autumn leaves. A wool kimono with a repeating pattern is versatile enough for daily activities, from catching up with friends to attending an exhibition. With the right accessories, this type of kimono is also appropriate for more formal outings like theater visits.
A Woman Wearing Kimono in an Autumn Garden
Winter kimonos are designed to keep you warm, typically featuring a lining. In snowy regions, it's common to add an extra layer of cotton between two silk layers for added insulation.
During winter, unmarried young women often wear an elegant type of kimono called furisode, which has long, flowing sleeves. These garments might display a crane design, a symbol of longevity in Japanese culture. While cranes are a year-round motif, they are particularly associated with winter because that's when these birds traditionally arrive in Japan. This makes them a popular choice for festive furisode worn to celebrate special occasions like the Coming of Age Day on January 10.
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